Hi everyone and welcome to a new video.
So in this one I’ll be making a Regency shift or chemise and this is based on a
tutorial I found online which I’ll link in the description box below. So
basically I’m starting by pulling one of the linen threads all across the top and
bottom of the fabric so I can straighten out the linen fabric. So if you didn’t
know, linen fabric, at least nowadays– so modern linen fabric shifts quite a bit
and is quite wonky so before you start your project, you need to make sure that
all of the threads aligned. So matching up the top and bottom edges now that
I’ve straightened them out and ironing them –ironing down the whole piece of
fabric so everything’s nice and straight. Now I can start on making my neckline
pattern for the chemise and this is also based on that tutorial that I linked in
the description box and basically it’s just a very square neckline with rounded
corners and when I cut out this pattern I didn’t realize that I had cut it out
twice as wide than it needed to be or it was a lot larger as you can see here I’m
comparing my new pattern piece to what I had originally cut for my fabric
because I had very limited –a very limited amount of this fabric I ended up
having to just snip off those shoulder strap pieces and then replacing it with
some of the fabric that I had left over from that wide neckline that I had cut.
So I did end up frankensteining this pattern
and it it may or may not be historically historical practice – I’m not sure – but I
did intend this to be a historically somewhat accurate pattern but
because of my silly mistake it is more of a Frankenstein pattern but that’s
okay – it still functions nicely as a chemise and yeah, I wasn’t ever
intending on putting sleeves on this chemise since I did want something that
was sleeveless so I could wear it with shorter sleeved Regency dresses. Anyway here I’m you can see that I’ve
cut out the new shoulder strap pieces and they’re much thicker and wider than
what they were before so that means that they’ll be able to fit on my shoulders
nicely and not fall off all the time like that other really wide neckline
would. So now I’m just pinning those shoulder pieces to the main bodice. Sorry,
not bodice, body –the main body of the chemise. So it’s sewing those two
shoulder pieces down and this is just a regular stitch. Historical practice would
require that you hand sew everything but yeah, you won’t be seeing much hand
sewing on my channel. Sorry if you’re here for more historically accurate–
historical –historically accurate sewing because I would classify my sewing as
more historically inspired. And here I’m trimming the excess seam allowance on
one of the edges and then with the wider seam I’m just folding that over the raw
edge of this smaller seam and then pinning that down. So this is what you
call a felled seam I believe. One of my viewers from my one of my past videos
commented that this is called a felled seam so yeah. So I’m felling all of the
seams on this chemise so there are no raw edges as linen does like to fray a
lot. Yeah so make sure you get rid of all of
those raw frayed ugly edges! So once that’s done I’m —oh I’m pinning the back
body piece to the back of the shoulder pieces and this is the exact same step
that I just showed where I sew down the piece and then trim away the excess seam
allowance from one of the seams, one of the seam allowances and then with the
other seam allowance which is a little bit wider I fold that over and then fell
that seam down. So there you go, you can see that both of
the shoulder pieces are now on and then what I decided to do was slightly narrow
the top part of the chemise down a bit because I did find that the shoulder
piece was a little bit too wide for what I wanted. So I folded the chemise in half
down the center front and then marked out how wide I want the shoulder part to
be and then gradually tapered that outwards to meet where the bodice.
Sorry not bodice, the rest of the body of the chemise is
and then trimming that excess fabric and then what did I decided to do here?
Oh I’m sewing the side seams of the chemise. Yeah pretty self-explanatory, so
pinning all of those seams down and I didn’t pin them all the way up to the
top because obviously you want to put your arms through some arm holes so I
did leave a space up the top about– I can’t tell how many inches is that
perhaps 9 or 10 inches? I left open at the top for that arm to be put through.
So I’m sewing down the side seam and then I’m also felling these seams which
is what I’m doing here. So I felled the seams on either side so I didn’t trim
away any excess fabric. I just folded one of these seams–
felled one of the seams in to the right which is what I’m doing here and then
the other seam will be felled towards the left if that makes sense. Basically
you’re just felling the seams away from the actual seam that attaches the two
pieces together and here I’m just doing a very narrow hem along the side so that
gap that we left for the arm to go through. So doing a loop around for the
arm and then felling the other side of the side seam. So I did that to both
sides and as you can see the sleeve –I shouldn’t call it a sleeve because it’s
sleeveless –but the arm cye is now nice and hemmed and the side seam is also
nicely felled as well. And then I moved on to hemming the bottom
of this of the chemise so this is just a regular narrow hem all along the bottom. And this was some leftover material from
when I trimmed down the shoulder piece When I trimmed that down and basically I’m
just cutting this into a thin strip of fabric to be used as the casing for the
lacing that runs, you know, where the lacing— I don’t even know if it’s called
lacing —what’s a called? The case for the For the lacing? Case for lacing… Anyway
you know what I mean. For the casing around the top neck edge. Yeah
and with the corner pieces I did this thing where I just trim– what I just did
there. I’ll show it again but anyway I sew the pieces together where they
meet at the corner. So I’m doing it again here. I lay the fabric on top of where I
need it to be and then just sew those two strips together and then I flatten
out the seam allowances on the corner and pin them in place so they’re easy to
sew after. So here’s another clip of me doing that corner piece. There are four
corners so I just lay fabric on top and then sew the two edges together where
they meet at the corner and then flatten out these seam
allowances and pin them down and so I just pinned this casing– that’s what it’s
called –the casing– I did say that before didn’t I? –Yeah so now that the casing is
all pinned into place I just sew all around the top edge of the neckline and
when I get to the corners I just make sure to pivot to get that nice square,
almost square looking corners and then I just slightly clip at those
corners so when I turn the casing or the binding inwards to the inside,
everything is nice and smooth and then because I don’t need all of this extra
excess material around the casing I’m just trimming it slightly. Don’t need that! And then I’m just folding the casing
inwards and the raw edge will be hidden within that. So pinning all of that
casing into place. And when I do the corners I just make
sure to keep them nice and flat, well as at least as flat as possible and then
sewing a very narrow seam allowance on that. And again when I get to the corners I
just go very carefully and pivot when I get to the corner. So now the casing is
in and there is a small gap in the center front for the lacing to come out
and tie in a bow. And you can see that all of the edges are all nicely finished
and the last thing is to insert the… the lacing. I don’t know what to call this…
cotton I think? It’s cotton tape, yeah. I’m using cotton tape as the lacing that
goes around to the neckline and doing this simple old trick of using a safety
pin to feed that lacing through. And now it can be cut and tied into a
bow. And that’s it! The chemise is done! Now I
know this isn’t very historically accurate. It is definitely way too short,
there are no gores on the side, there are no sleeves, there are no gussets underneath
the arm, but overall it’s a nice… it’s a nice chemise to wear under any dress really
and it’s also a nice summer dress, night dress, whatever you want it to be! So I
hope you enjoyed this video make sure to subscribe if you want to see more sewing
vloggy type videos. I don’t know if you could call these vlogs. I call them vlogs
because they’re very rambly and yeah, like they’re just my sewing diaries 🙂
so if you want to see more, I do a lot of well… well I’m hoping to do a lot of
fantasy cosplay historically inspired type of sewing videos so if you want to
see any of that make sure to hit subscribe and I hope to see you next
time. Bye! 🙂

Author Since: Mar 11, 2019

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